Star Wars Speeder Bike [WIP - Basecoat as well as Topcoat Prep on the Hull Plating and Steering Vanes]

 If there was ever a case against painting scale model kits, then a simple photo comparison between the end results of this post and the start point of my previous Speeder Bike work-in-progress post makes for a deceptively strong argument for leaving it in its original molded colors. It's a lot of work for what at first glance seems to show no significant difference between painted and unpainted parts. But there are three reasons why I chose to paint: (a) better color accuracy; (b) improved realism upon closer inspection; and (c) a stronger, damage-resistant base on which to apply weathering effects. All also reasons (excuses) for me to upload, yet another, work-in-(not much)-progress post. 

Work-in-progress: Basecoat and topcoat on the Speeder Bike's Hull Plating & Steering Vanes

 While I took inspiration from the excellent Black and White Technique by Jose Luis Lopez, there is a key difference in application that makes my version a pale imitation of the original. For Mr. Lopez's technique to truly shine, the subsequent basecoat color must be applied in extremely thin coats so as to allow a clear contrast in shading. I instead applied a thicker basecoat, which greatly reduced the contrast in shadows and highlights. However I did so consciously because I was after a subtler difference in shading that was more a dullness of color for shadows versus a vivid highlight. That being said, it's inevitable I'll one day use the Black and White Technique as intended, just not today.

Shadowed areas of the primed parts were painted black to affect a duller and darker basecoat

Top down view: shadowed sections of the primed parts that were painted black

A brown basecoat was airbrushed onto the light grey primed parts with black shadow areas

 Admittedly the contrast achieved in my version of the technique ... even accounting for my take on the original technique ... was too subtle and would likely be buried under the subsequent weathering effects. So if you want higher contrast between the shadows and highlights, then you can't go wrong with the original Black and White Technique. In hindsight, I perhaps should've applied a slightly thinner basecoat layer. But at this larger 1/12 scale, the geometric dimensions of the kit itself can sometimes provide visible shadow and highlight contrasts without having to paint them in, which was the reason why I wanted to go for subtlety in the first place. So not all is lost. 

Recessed area on the side has a subtly duller/darker look courtesy of the underlying black coat

Similar subtle shading effects were applied on the rear section of the Speeder Bike

Best results of this shadows to highlight gradation can be found on the rear curved section

Shadowed effect is partly due to a dull vs vivid hue cause by different underlying primer coats

Either bright lighting or an overly thick basecoat masked the intended shadow effect

Steering vanes' interior sides are darker/duller vs the exterior sides 

Sadly this subtle shadow effect tends to fail under bright lighting

 After the basecoat was applied, it was time to protect this layer of brown paint with a clear topcoat and make it more damage-resistant to subsequent weathering techniques. I went with a semi-gloss topcoat as a compromise between making the surface areas smooth enough for washes to flow into the nook and crannies, and rough enough for weathering effects to adhere to the parts. As such, I may yet apply a flat/matte topcoat over the parts once weathering is done because I believe the Hull Plating and Steering Vanes looks more realistic (i.e. less plasticky) with a flat topcoat. Moreover, the subtle shadow and highlight effects are more noticeable with a flat/matte topcoat.

Speeder Bike's Hull Plating and Steering Vanes after a protective semi-gloss topcoat was applied

 At the end of this drawn-out process, the Speeder Bike is now prepped for the weathering effect as well as detail-painting process. Even if I don't complete that all I need to do in the initial weathering phase, there is still a good chance I can get most of it done prior to full assembly. The same goes for the detail-painting process. A lot of work lies ahead and most of it will only start next year as I wind down hobby activities for a but of a short break during the last two weeks of the year. I think I have one more post in me before 2021 comes a calling so it's not the end for 2020 yet. So see you then.