A belated look back at 2019

Ironically, as I am hit by the umpteenth mid-life crisis brought about by my birthday, I sought to look back belatedly at what I had actually achieved back in 2019. It wasn't much. In fact it was a pretty meager return for what seemed like a lot of effort put in. Mitigating circumstances abound, well two anyway, saw one project coming extremely close to completion towards the tail-end of last year while another project had actually been finished but I had forgotten to post the final photos. Duh and duh.

Bandai 1/12 scale Star Wars The Force Awakens' First Order Stormtrooper

MENG Model 1/35 scale German Heavy Tank Sd.Kfz.182 King Tiger (Henschel Turret)

I'm almost embarrassed to post the following in my look back at last year's projects but things being as lean as they are I was pretty desperate. There were two "semi-finished" mini-projects in the form of the 1/100 scale FF-X7 Core Fighter and pilot figurine Amuro Ray, both of which are part of a larger project namely the Bandai Master Grade RX-78-2 Gundam Version 3.0 scale model kit. On the plus side, Grandpa Gundam will be a bonus project I can add to the 2020 list. So, yay ... right?

Bandai 1/100 scale FF-X7 Core Fighter (forms part of the RX-78-2 Gundam kit)

Bandai 1/100 scale Amuro Ray standing figure in a pilot suit (part of the RX-78-2 Gundam kit)

Moreover in the dotage of my middle age years, I had a face palm moment upon realizing I had forgotten to post the final photos of the atelier iT 1/12 scale Race Queen resin figurine project that I had already completed. (The photo you see below is one of her in the final work-in-progress stage.) At least she will be another project that I get to add to my 2020 list of completed projects. Silver lining, clouds, and all that positive unicorn over the rainbow stuff. Hey, when life give you lemons ...

atelier iT 1/12 scale Race Queen resin figurine work-in-progress

Looking back, one key advancement I pride myself in having achieved last year was improving my airbrushing skills. I'm feeling increasingly more comfortable with an airbrush. Hopefully that will eventually result in works of better quality. Now that's something I can look forward to this year. 

MG RX-78-2 Gundam Ver.3.0 [WIP Part 3 of 3 Core Fighter : Final Assembly & Panel Lining]

My first Gundam project began with a fair bit of trepidation at the need to paint a myriad of small parts separately before assembling them. That uneasy feeling has since dissipated as anticipation of the said task turned out to be worse than the actual experience. In fact I found it quite gratifying to paint the many tiny parts individually, before seeing them transform into a complete whole. Where I expected tedium I found instead satisfaction, which arose from a series of small accomplishments that kept me going until the parts could be pieced together to take the shape of its intended form.  

Bandai 1/100 scale FF-X7 Core Fighter of the RX-78-2 Gundam [Completed]

At this final stage of the Core Fighter's painting/assembly process, the only steps left was to piece all the separate parts together and apply the finishing touches i.e. panel lining. I toyed with the idea of clear coating the entire Core Fighter with a matt varnish but decided against it at the last minute.  

Color scheme comprises a simple red, white and blue with gun metal thrown in for good measure

While sticker decals stick out rather than blend in, they still increase the Core Fighter's aesthetic value

Not being a die-hard fan of Gundam lore, I am stumped as to why the fighter's landing gear was molded in clear plastic. So for now I just left it untouched because it looked kinda cool as is.

Landing gear (see lower right corner of the fighter) was left in its original clear molded plastic

Back view showing the engine thrusters of the FF-X7 Core Fighter

Wings were folded up in its semi-deployed configuration to show off the decals on the side

Although the sticker decals don't look as good as water decals or dry transfers, they still make the Core Fighter look better by being stuck on the hull rather than off it. For now they stay on.

Landing gear (see bottom of the fighter) was left in its original clear molded plastic

Canopy can be opened but it remains closed over the cockpit in this configuration

Core Fighter assumes a configuration with its wings semi-extended and its missile pods open 

In the photos shown here, the Core Fighter is in a configuration which sees its wings semi-extended; its missile pods opened; its canopy closed over the cockpit. The fighter's wings can either fully extend out to either side or fold into its body (over the missile pods which in turn can be closed). Also not shown here is the canopy in an opened configuration which sees the cockpit/nose section fold into the main body. In this form the Core Fighter actually fits into the torso of the RX-78-2 Gundam. If I remember later, I will try to show all these different poses alongside the completed mecha.   

Top down view of the FF-X7 Core Fighter of the RX-78-2 Gundam

Bottom view of the FF-X7 Core Fighter of the RX-78-2 Gundam, with its landing gear attached

Bottom view of the FF-X7 Core Fighter of the RX-78-2 Gundam, with its landing gear removed

Painting the Core Fighter versus leaving it in its original molded plastic colors was a decision I didn't regret one iota. If you take a look at the photo immediately above this paragraph you'll be able to see the different between unpainted and painted plastic. The white square section immediately below the blue nose section is unpainted plastic while the net white square section following that is painted. I think you'll agree that the painted section looks so much better than bare plastic.

BEFORE Panel Lining was applied to the Core Fighter

AFTER Panel Lining was applied to the Core Fighter

Every time I feel too lazy to do panel lining I should refer back to the two before and after photos above. Initially I had thought the Core Fighter looked good enough without any panel lining. But in the end I decided to apply some Mr Weather Color (Multi-Black) into the grooves before washing away the excess with Mr Weathering Color Thinner. I'm glad I did because details on the Core Fighter become much more noticeable after application of the panel lining wash. I was also glad I painted the display panel on the pilot cockpit (see below) as it gave the piece an added oomph.

Top down view of the cockpit/canopy section near the Core Fighter's nose

Close up view of the display panel facing Amuro Ray

Close up of Amuro Ray seated in the cockpit of the Core Fighter

So my first experience of the 'Gundam approach' to painting has been a surprisingly pleasant one. This goes to show that too much thinking before any undertaking can be extremely detrimental to a hobby project even beginning. Maybe that's why I've a lot of hobby projects mothballed.

Easy part of the RX-78-2 Gundam scale model kit is now finished

With the Core Fighter now completed, my attention has shifted into planning mode (... just as I called for less thinking and more doing ...) for the next section of the RX-78-2 Gundam to be assembled and painted i.e. its Body Unit. In hindsight, starting off with this Master Grade kit was a masterstroke in that I got to experience, via the Core Fighter, a microcosm of the usual lengthy process of painting and assembling a Gundam mecha. For sure it has left me wanting more. And that's a good thing.

MG RX-78-2 Gundam Ver.3.0 [WIP Part 2 of 3 Core Fighter : Detail Painting and Sticker Decals]

It has been quite a while since I painted figurines at a scale of 1/100 or less. My last effort dates back more than three years ago for a 1/144 scale project that has since been mothballed. Back then I painted the ensemble cast revolving around the Millennium Falcon (first Han and Chewie followed by the rest). from Star Wars: The Force Awakens. As you can see my painting skills at such scales have degenerated due to lack of use. But being a fastidious online chronicler of the progresses made on my miniature figurine and scale model kit projects, I am still posting the results, warts and all.

Amuro Ray, seated pilot version at 1/100 scale [Completed]

Torso looks a bit of a mess but I didn't bother with touch ups seeing it'll be largely hidden from view

To my naked eye the results looked great but up close with a dedicated macro lens ... not so much

Painting straight lines at this scale gets easier the more you practice

At this tiny scale, the miniature figurine looks better the farther you pull back

Apart from Amuro Ray in the seated pilot pose, there wasn't really much detail painting required of the FF-X7 Core Fighter of the RX-78-2 Gundam. Ordnance in the fighter's missile pods was painted a plain red; the cockpit backlit display green with off-white nondescript letterings; while surrounding area of the pilot seat received a dark gray hue with more green instrument panels plus dots of off-white and reds to signify instrument lights. That last bit would eventually turn out to be a waste of effort as at that time I didn't realize most of it was going to be completely hidden from view.

Missile pods attaching into the wings had the tips of its ordnance painted red

Cockpit instrument panel with a green 'backlit' display and some nondescript letterings

Surrounding area of pilot seat which, at the time of painting, I didn't realize was going to be hidden from view

Throughout my eight years in the hobby, this was the first time I had come across sticker decals. And after working with them for just a short while, I can easily say I'm not a fan. At all. To me, they have too many negatives. Firstly, outlines of the sticker decals are extremely obvious thus cheapening the look of the whole kit. Secondly, if any weathering or panel lining is done too close to the sticker decals then the paint will tend to seep underneath the decal making the outlines even more obvious. Thirdly, it's impossible to move them around once stuck onto a surface. Peeling the sticker decals off to reposition them can work occasionally but in my case they were damaged beyond repair.    

Semi-assembled sections of the Core Fighter which required sticker decals

Bandai Gundam sticker decals and instructions on where to place them on the kit

Visibility of the sticker decal outlines seem to vary depending of the color of the surface the decal is stuck on. The frosty outline of the decal looks best hidden against a white background. But then again it could just be surfaces angled in a way to reflect more light therefore exposing the outlines. 

Sticker decals on the fighter's nose section was both wrongly placed (warning sign) ...

... as well as damaged (the nondescript words after WB102 had been torn off)

Frosty characteristics of the sticker decal seem more visible when placed against a blue versus white background

Most of the sticker decals for the Core Fighter require a mirror version to be placed on the other side

Any weathering or panel lining tends to seep underneath the sticker decals and make the decal outline visible

Yet another sticker decal which requires a mirror version of itself to be placed on the opposite side

White backgrounds seem best for hiding the frosty outline of the sticker decals

         On the wing tip, the sticker decals show another inherent flaw in that they don't conform well to uneven surfaces            (note: a groove in the middle of the decal causes the wordings to reflect light differently) 

Does that mean I'll never use sticker decals again? Unfortunately that may not be possible. I'll definitely avoid sticker decals if alternatives such as water decals or dry transfers are available. In cases where alternatives aren't available I'll either do without or use the sticker decals anyway.

Sub-assembled sections with sticker decals are placed next to a five sen coin and paperclip for size comparison

Before I sign off for this week, I thought I would add my two cents on Gundam kits in general. Initially I had wondered if I should paint the Core Fighter at all seeing that the color separation of this kit was so good. Even at this fairly early stage I can tell you I'm very glad I did. Though slight, the differences between a painted surface and a standard molded plastic surface is perceptible enough to the naked eye. So much so that the former has a higher realism factor while the latter looks toy-like. Well that's it for another week. The next should see a completed FF-X7 Core Fighter. See you then.

MG RX-78-2 Gundam Ver.3.0 [WIP Part 1 of 3 Core Fighter : Priming and Painting Strategy]

By and large, each scale model kit genre requires its own painting strategy. Even within a particular genre - be it armored fighting vehicles, miniature figurines or mechas - an individual kit may call for an approach that differs from the norm of its peers. As with most Gundam kits, the RX-78-2 requires a multitude of parts to be painted separately before they're combined to build a specific section of the mecha. While this is both challenging and time consuming, there is a certain perverse satisfaction to be had when it all comes together. This then is my painting strategy for the FF-X7 Core Fighter.   

RX-78-2 Gundam Core Fighter work-in-progress: Painting the individual parts that make up its whole

FF-X7 Core Fighter; designed to be a space fighter which doubles up as a cockpit for the RX-78-2 Gundam 

What then is a Core Fighter? In short, it's a space fighter that transforms to become the cockpit of a Gundam. Its alternate form allows it to fit into the mecha's torso. Priming for the individual Core Fighter parts was done in two main colors i.e. light gray and black. A few parts that were initially primed in light gray had to be re-primed in black. It was a straightforward mistake on my part as I wasn't paying attention to the eventual hues to be painted (i.e. metallic and dark grey) on those parts (i.e. engine vents and thrusters), which actually necessitated a black primer coat.     

Tamiya Fine Surface Primer (Light Gray) and Mr.Hobby Mr.Finishing Surfacer 1500 (Black)

Primed and un-primed: all the indvidual parts that will make up the RX-78-2 Core Fighter

O Gundam, Gundam, how doth I even prime thee Gundam? Admittedly a few parts did not require any priming (see below). These are either parts that will be completely hidden from view therefore will remain unpainted or ones that are best in their original state e.g. clear parts. As for parts that needed priming, it was done in a variety of ways (also see below). Some were stuck on the end of a bamboo stick while others were secured on old vitamin bottles (only caps are shown). Either choice depended on which platform afforded the most stability to the part being held while painting.   

Miscellaneous parts of the Core Fighter that wasn't primed because they won't be painted

Parts stuck to the end of a bamboo stick for priming: Blue sections of the main body including nose

Parts too small (or unstable) to be stuck to the end of a stick: Canopy front structure, tail fin and pilot seat frame

Because it was an all clear part, the cockpit canopy needed special masking before it was primed. So apart from its supporting framework, the rest of the canopy was masked (see immediate photo below). Meanwhile sufficiently undergated parts (i.e. parts connected to the sprue at locations that will be hidden after assembly) and parts requiring minimal touch up work after being snipped off the sprue were both primed on the sprues itself. In fact the best way to secure some of these parts for priming was to actually leave them still attached to the sprues (also see below).   

Parts that require careful masking before being primed: Cockpit canopy

Parts primed on sprue (sufficiently undergated or require minor touch-up): Wings, missile pods, pilot, and body sections

Extreme measures were taken when there was a likelihood the primer coat may affect the assembly of the snap-fit parts. In such cases, the sub-assembly was put together first before being primed. The piece was then disassembled before the separate pieces are painted up. An advantage of this method is that the primed areas of the disassembled pieces show where paint is specifically needed. Surfaces that eventually form the snap-fit joint areas had been left unprimed thus giving a clear indication of where not to paint. This prevents a layer of primer/coat from making the fit too tight.

Parts (rear thrusters and main fighter body) put together into a sub-assembly before being primed ...

... and then disassembled back into its component parts for painting

At this early stage, mostly only basecoat colors were airbrushed onto the parts. One issue I had was the suboptimal coverage attributes of the Mr Color 001 Gloss White paint, at least on a light gray primer coat. I'm assuming that's why Mr.Hobby came out with the Mr.Color GX line that supposedly affords better paint coverage. I had no coverage problems with the Mr.Color Gundam Color paints. For the blues, I used UG02 Blue as the base color followed by UG14 Light Blue as a highlight color, then a reapplication of UG02 Blue to tie the blue hues together. For reds, I used UG04 Red only.

Whites airbrushed using the Mr.Color 001 White (Gloss); paint coverage was suboptimal

Masking tape removed from the cockpit canopy to reveal its structural framework

Blues airbrushed with Mr.Color Gundam Colors i.e. UG02 Blue and UG14 Light Blue; paint coverage good

Reds airbrushed using Mr.Color Gundam Color UG04 Red; paint coverage good

For parts painted on sprues, additional work was required in the form of paint touch ups. Separating painted parts from the sprue will inevitably leave blemishes on surface areas previously connected to the sprue/part. Thankfully careful planning beforehand had minimized occurrences of such blemishes, which were then easily covered up with Mr.Finishing Surfacer 1500 Gray followed by Gundam Color UG04 Red. Both were hand brushed onto the affected areas (see below). 

Parts painted on the sprues such as the wing assembly were then snipped off ...

... and the blemished areas previously connected to the sprue was touched up with hand brushed paint

It was only after the basecoat layer was applied that I realized the core fighter's tail fin was supposed to be in two colors. This oversight necessitated further masking, priming and painting of the part. 

Certain parts like the tail fin required further masking and additional paint

Color separation of the tail fin is clean thanks to the effective masking process

Meanwhile I also tried out a new specialized thinner for metallic paint. As I understand it, the Gaianotes G-Color Metallic Master Thinner T-09m suspends the metallic particles/pigments of the metallic paint (in this case, Gaia Color No.20 Gun Metal) better and for longer. In theory, this should result in less flakiness of the metallic paint. Cost-wise the specialized thinner costs almost twice the price of a regular Gaianotes lacquer paint thinner. There is still some flakiness to be seen but that could be my bad as I may not have properly mixed the metallic paint in the airbrush paint cup. 

Gaianotes metallic paint was thinned with the specially formulated G-Color T-09m Metallic Master

T-09m Metallic Master thinner supposedly suspends metallic pigments in the paint longer for a less flaky result

Parts that won't be painted remain unprimed while the pilot seat is re-primed in black

As you would've gathered by now even from just the photos above, painting Gundam isn't for the faint-hearted. It's a lot of planning. It's a lot of work. It's time consuming. Will it be worth it at the end. I'll let you know when, at the very least, the FF-X7 Core Fighter has been painted and fully assembled. Next up is painting the tiny details and applying sticker decals. So see you soon.