Experimenting with Water Effects and Realistic Water

At the back of my mind is this nagging itch to create and build a diorama that has lots of water. There is something about realistic looking water in miniature scale just seems so cool to me. Previously I had tried using epoxy resin to create a mini water diorama. This time around, I tried using a more user-friendly (and noob-proof) product to create a very quick and simple sea-themed base for yet another miniature I am working on, the Ax Faction Victorian Darling aka Kraken Hunter.

Creating a quick and simple sea-themed base Woodland Scenics products

Woodland Scenics Realistic Water (left) and Water Effects (right)

Step 1: A square piece was cut out from an IKEA cork pot stand for use as the base. I did toy with the idea of applying some plaster rolls on one side to prevent leakage of the Woodland Scenics Realistic Water through the cork. Instead, curiosity got the better of me and I went ahead without applying any plaster rolls on the cork's surface just to see if any leakage would occur.

It all starts with a cork base

Step 2: A basecoat of Citadel Ceramite White acrylic paint was applied on the cork base.

Basecoated in Ceramite White

Step 3: This was followed by a 50:50 mid-tone mix of Citadel Regal Blue and Mordian Blue paints.

Mid-tone was a 50:50 mix of Regal Blue and Mordian Blue

Step 4: Highlights was painted using different combinations of Citadel Regal Blue, Mordian Blue, Hawk Turquoise, Shadow Grey and Russ Grey. My aim was to create the colours of the sea.

Using blue, turquoise and grey to recreate the colours of the sea

Step 5: Using super glue, a 'fence' was build around the painted cork base in order to contain the Woodland Scenics Realistic Water when it is poured onto the surface of the painted cork base.

Creating a super glue fence to contain the realistic water

Step 6: Very minimal leakage occurred when the Realistic Water was poured into the 'fenced-in' area. However, enough of the Realistic Water had seeped into the porous cork (despite having a few layers of acrylic paint on it) that I had to pour an additional layer of the Woodland Scenics product onto the cork base, that is after allowing the initial layer to cure for 24 hours. The need for a second layer of Realistic Water could also have been required due to shrinkage of the initial layer.

Woodland Scenics Realistic Water was poured into the 'fenced-in' area

Close up of the realistic water effects after two layers, each curing for 24 hours

Step 7: After the two separate layers of Realistic Water had had time to properly cure (a total of 48 hours), I gently squeezed out some thin lines of the Woodland Scenics Water Effects onto the dried layers of Realistic Water. I then used a toothpick to rough up the lines somewhat to look like white caps on an ocean. The Water Effects were allowed to dry for 24 hours, after which it became clear.

Woodland Scenics Water Effects were added to the cured Realistic Water

Water Effects became clear after drying overnight

Step 8: Citadel Skull White was then painted onto the clear (and dry) Water Effects to make them look like white caps on an ocean. The overall effect could have been better if I had made the 'fenced-in' area deeper. But because this was a test piece, I had earlier decided to leave it shallow. 

Step 9: I placed the Ax Faction Victorian Darling aka Kraken Hunter's base on top to see how the whole thing would look like. It's painfully obvious that the whole thing will look better if I do not use the round plastic base. It's either that or paint the black round plastic base in ocean colours.

Losing the round plastic base will make things more realistic

Pieces of the Ax Faction Victorian Darling aka Kraken Hunter

Ax Faction's Victorian Darling has fantastic details and is already looking like a fun piece to work on. At this stage, I still have no idea what colours she or the kraken tentacles are going to be. For sure it will have to be something that goes with the greenish blue of the ocean. Decisions, decisions!