Sturmgeschütz III Ausf.B Sd.Kfz.142 [WIP - Assembly of the Lower Hull, Suspension Springs/Arms, Return Rollers, and Rear Panel/Grille]

 Assembly of the Tamiya 1/35 scale Sturmgeschütz III Ausf.B Sd.Kfz.142 began, for me at least, with steps one through four as per the instructions. This series of initial steps focuses on the lower hull and its exterior parts including the suspension arms/springs, return rollers, and rear panel/grille. For a sense of what is involved in putting together the lower hull, other exterior parts yet to be worked on for this section comprise the idler wheels, drive sprockets, road wheels, towing hooks, and tracks. Below is an account of the progress so far at this early stage in the assembly process.

Sturmgeschütz III work-in-progress: Assembly steps 1 through 4 (top/front isometric view)

Sturmgeschütz III work-in-progress: Assembly steps 1 through 4 (top/back isometric view)

Tamiya Sturmgeschütz III Ausf.B Sd.Kfz.142 assembly instructions, Steps 1 through 4

Having had some experience building World War Two (WW2) tanks, I was appreciative of a simple design that ensured the suspension arms did not fall out from the lower hull. Rather than creating a tight fit for the suspension arms into the lower hull, Tamiya had designed an elongated piece of plastic (see below; top half of first photo) which is glued on over the spring arms, on the interior side. This design helps secure the arms and prevent them from falling out of the lower hull, at least not easily.  

Interior view of the piece of elongated plastic that is glued over the suspension arms

Side view (from left) of the work-in-progress lower hull, showing the attached suspension arms

 Another interesting design concept by Tamiya was to include suspension springs that are attached to the suspension arms located at the four farthest corners of the lower hull (see below). These springs provide a rudimentary suspension system. As to how effective this system is, I'll only be able to tell when the drive sprockets, idler/road wheels and track has been installed to the lower hull. 

'Front-left' section of lower hull; note the suspension arm farthest to the left ...

... which on its reverse side (interior) is attached to a suspension spring ...

.. which then allows the said suspension arm the ability to absorb some tension ...

... when the said arm is depressed upwards towards the upper hull

 Details on the lower hull are pretty good, especially towards the back end of the lower hull (see below). That is to be expected because the front end of the Sturmgeschütz III's lower hull would've been plain as it's function was dedicated solely to being a lower glacis armor. 

'Back-left' section of the lower hull has incredible details ...

... which continues on to the rear section of the lower hull ...

... and on to the 'back-right' section whose details mirror the opposite side of the lower hull

 As for both sides the lower hull so far, details are mainly in the form of return rollers, suspension arms and the surface texture of the front protrusions (into which the drive sprockets will eventually be attached). Things will look much busier once the idler/road wheels, drive sprockets, and tracks are attached to the lower hull. These latter parts will likely be painted separately from the lower hull.

Side view (from right) of the work-in-progress lower hull

'Front-right' section; note the surface texture on far right protrusion (example of good detail)

Front view of the Sturmgeschütz III's work-in-progress lower hull

 Below are photos showcasing the progress so far as seen from the bottom of the lower hull.

Sturmgeschütz III work-in-progress: Assembly steps 1 through 4 (bottom/front isometric view)

Sturmgeschütz III work-in-progress: Assembly steps 1 through 4 (bottom/back isometric view)

 Apart from the tedium of having to meticulously remove mold lines from the suspension arms, the build has been pretty straightforward so far. As unique as the suspension spring system was, the process of putting them in place was also easy with minor difficulty arising from having to handle the tiny caps that secure the spring in place (see instructions above). So all in all, there has been no major issues or problems thus far. Assembly on the Sturmgeschütz III should continue soon, if I can pry myself from my latest time-sink of reading books, lots of them. So until next time, it's time for me to curl up with a good book or three to read. For now, stay safe dear reader and see you soon.

Sturmgeschütz III Ausf.B Sd.Kfz.142 [Second Color Test for WW2 German Gray including Blue Filter Effect]

 On a previous paint set review, I had taken the opportunity then to do a quick color test for the upcoming Tamiya 1/35 scale Sturmgeschütz III Ausf.B Sd.Kfz.142 project. But results were unsatisfactory. So having a hobby induced obsessive-compulsive-tendency coupled with an inherent perfectionist approach to work meant I had to bury (or at least quieten) my demons by revisiting the  maiden color test. To build upon my earlier effort, this particular color test had three differences in the form of: a black primer coat instead of light gray; a color gradient for a more accurate comparison to the molded part color; and use of a blue filter specific for Panzer Gray.  

World War 2 (WW2) German Gray color test revisited in more detail

 First, comparison between the German Gray hues on black versus light gray primer. To the naked eye there doesn't seem to be any discernible difference to the German gray hues being painted on top of either black or light gray primer. Certainly the rudimentary lighting system used in my photography sessions certainly doesn't help the neutral observer from discerning such minute details. Even under natural lighting the difference - all round lighter tonal value for gray hues painted on a light gray primer coat - is almost imperceptible. However, which primer being used becomes pertinent when considering one's approach to color modulation. This I'll explain in future posts.

German Gray hues from the Mr.Hobby Color Modulation set painted in a gradient; sans topcoat

A clear matt topcoat was spray painted onto the gray gradient hues as a protective layer for the next step i.e. application of a AK Interactive Blue Filter for Panzer Gray

German Gray hues from the Mr.Hobby Color Modulation set painted in a gradient; with topcoat

Comparison between the painted German Gray gradient vs the original plastic mold colors

 Second, painting a German Gray color gradient that changes gradually in tonal value. To give you an idea in how this gradient was created, the following is the steps involved:

1. Coat entire styrene plastic sheet with black primer;
2. Paint first layer with darkest hue in the Mr.Hobby color modulation set i.e. German Gray Shadow CMC09;
3. Paint second layer with German Gray C40, leaving a band of bottom layer (i.e. CMC09) showing on the left;
4. Paint third layer with German Gray Highlight 1 (CMC07) on top of C40 layer, leaving the exposed 5. CMC09 layer alone and leaving some of the C40 layer showing on its left;
6. Paint final layer with lightest hue in the set i.e. German Gray Highlight 2 (CMC08), leaving the exposed CMC09 and C40 layers alone and leaving some of the CMC07 showing on its left.

To sum up, in the end what you have is a color gradient with CMC09 on black primer; C40 on top of CMC09; CMC07 on top of C40; and finally CMC08 on top of CMC07 (see photos immediately above this paragraph). This gradient is then 'unified' under a blue filter (see photos below). 

Filter of choice was an enamel product i.e. the AK Interactive Blue Filter for Panzer Grey

German Gray color gradient with the blue filter applied

German Gray color gradient plus blue filter compared to the original plastic molded part

 Third, application of an enamel-based filter (AK Interactive Blue Filter for Panzer Gray) on the German Gray color gradient, with white spirit as the blending agent. Whether it's because of my inexperience in applying enamel filters or because the product was already too old thus damaged or made-ineffective in some way, the blue filter didn't blend well. Streaks, blobs, and globs of blue are clearly visible versus having a non-visible filter that changes the underlying color. On the bright side, the streaks, blobs, and globs of blue actually give the color gradient a natural weathered-look. That it also unifies the color gradient and make color transitions look smoother is a win-win for me. 

German Gray color gradient with the blue filter applied but under brighter settings

German Gray color gradient plus blue filter and the original plastic part, under brighter settings

 Finally, with the color tests for the Sturmgeschütz III done and dusted, I can now move on to its assembly process. For miniature figurine painters who are unfamiliar with the 1/35 scale armored fighting vehicles (AFVs) assembly process, know this at least ... it's fairly hard and time consuming. More so when you have to consider some parts need to be painted separately before assembly. And then there are the photo-etched parts which are a whole different level of headache. In fairness it's a challenge but a fun one, so I'm equal parts looking forward to the assembly process, and dreading it too. “What am I doing? Tearing myself. My usual occupation at most times.” Charles Dickens