Star Wars AT-ST [WIP - Phase Two of the Hull, Drive Engine & Gyro System; Oil Dot Filter Weathering]

As a work-in-progress update it's pretty hard to distinguish between Phase One and Phase Two of the weathering process. Firstly there the technical issue with photography which I'll get into in more detail later. And secondly there's the slightly overenthusiastic way I had approached Phase One which resulted in certain sections having a more pronounced rust stains than I had originally wanted. This had an undesired effect of rendering subsequent layers oil dot filter weathering to become almost imperceptible. But thankfully this only occurred in areas of the AT-ST with too much rust stains. 

Chromatic variation is most apparent in the AT-ST's gyro system ...

... but on the walker's side panels the rust stains seem to have overwhelmed all other filtered hues

Materials used for this weathering technique comprised oil paints from two brands namely Winsor & Newton and Abteilung 502 as well as Artists' White Spirit from the former. Differences between oil paints from the two brands, at least from what I've observed when working with them, is as follows:

   (a) It has been said that being Winsor & Newton's mid-range offering, the Winton oil colors have a lower pigment load/density compared with Abteilung 502 oils which were specially formulated for modelers. This seemed to be the case as the latter had better surface adhesion and didn't wash away so readily when blended with white spirit. In terms of pigment load/density, Abteilung 502 oils are allegedly closer to Winsor & Newton's premium range i.e. Artists' Oil Colour.
   (b) There was far less linseed oil medium in the Abteilung 502 oil paints compared with the Winton oil colors. As such, the former doesn't have to be placed as long on the cardboard palette during the linseed oil leaching process. This particular property could also have contributed to (a) above in that the Abteilung 502 oil paint dried out more making it harder to blend into a filter. It's just an educated guess mind you as I didn't set up any control experiments.     

Winsor & Newton Winton and Abteilung 502 oil paints were used for the oil dot filter weathering technique 

Linseed oil inside the paints was leached out onto a cardboard palette ...

... overnight in an enclosed plastic container

Oil paints had a more matt look to them the next day

After the oil dot filter weathering process, I had applied another protective clear coat for subsequent weathering steps. And here I caught a lucky break for, you see, I had sprayed on a lacquer clear coat over the oil paints. Technically this is a no-no because the solvent inherent in a lacquer paints can potentially dissolve the oil paints and cause a horrible mess. But none of this happened. My guess is that three factors had come into play: (1) Sufficient time was allowed for the oil paints to dry and cure; (2) Being applied as a filter meant low amounts of oil paint was left on the surface, which incidentally allowed them to dry faster too; and (3) In relatively hot weather, a significant amount of solvent had evaporated when the lacquer clear coat was sprayed onto the surface area.  

A clear lacquer coat was used to seal in the oil dot filter effects (see post for caveats to this step)

That being said it is still advisable to use acrylic clear coats as the preferred method of protecting an underlying oil-based layer. In cases whereby a substantial amount of oil paints have been used in the previous step (e.g. using oil paints to paint skin tone) it would be suicidal to believe the underlying layer of oil paints won't be affected in any way by a lacquer coat on top of it. Results of the oil dot filter weathering process on surface areas basecoated in light grey can be seen in the photos below. 

Most recognizable piece of hull of the AT-ST, it being the front-end and all

Closeup of the front-end of the hull better reveals the chromatic variations

A clearer view of the chromatic variations introduced by the oil dot filter technique

Compared to what can be seen with the naked eye, the resulting chromatic variations achieved using the oil dot filter weathering technique become relatively poor visuals when viewed through these photos. This is largely caused by my struggle to obtain an optimal level of white balance during the photography session. White balance is a critical component of photography that can affect how the hues look like in the display screen of a viewer's electronic device. Moreover white balance is especially vital when dealing with predominantly monotone hues, which is the case for the AT-ST.    

Look closely enough and you'll see hints of blue green/white/grey/blue mixed in with the rust stains

It's almost imperceptible but the monotone light grey hues is now more varied chromatically

AT-ST side panels with the rust stains and oil dot filter weathering

One key thing I noticed was a slightly greenish tint in the photos that became very pronounced on certain brands of electrical devices. To counter this I tried to adjust the white balance of the final photos by using the plain manila Microsoft Picture Manager. So all I could effectively do was try to fix the greenish tint by adjusting the overall colors towards the magenta spectrum. It's extremely frustrating when you realize that it's mostly out of your hands how observers view your photos, color-wise. Because I cannot possibly account for every type of display in the market I tend to concentrate on making the colors looks as accurate as possible only on Windows and Apple devices.

Yet another section in which I might've overdone the rust stain weathering

Ditto for the underside of this section because the rust hues have overwhelmed the other colors

Although other filter hues are present, one tends to notice the bluish green tints more as they complement the rust hues

I'm thinking of either leaving the flexible steel pipes nonmetallic or just drybrush a light coating of metallics   

Gyro system of the AT-ST after being weathered with rust stains and oil dot filters

Even the command viewport hatches and smaller side panels are not spared from oil dot filter weathering

Phase Three of the weathering process is coming up and it's one in which the changes in between phases are drastic enough to be easily noticeable. This phase, which involves painting micro paint chips, is a tricky and time consuming process. But once it's done, the level of realism on the AT-ST walker should ratchet up exponentially. That's something to look forward to after a fairly boring transition from Phase One to Phase Two. Thanks for reading this post anyway though!

What's in store from my project pipeline, optimistically speaking, in the coming months of 2018

It was nearly three years ago when I last did a project pipeline update. As is my wont, other projects soon crept into the pipeline (i.e. Katana, a Snowspeeder, C-3PO, R2-D2, BB-8, Princess Leia, a T-55A tank, a Nurgle Rhino, a Bodhisattva, a Star Destroyer, Darth Vader, a pair of TIE Fighters and a Stormtrooper) resulting in a poor 38% completion rate of the original to-do list. So it's not without a little trepidation that I catalogue yet more potential projects for the coming months. But my apprehensions aside, one common theme running through the projects will be "pairings". 

Bandai 1/100 scale RX-8-2 Gundam paired with 1/8 scale Sayla Mass

Bandai 1/500 scale Space Battleship Yamato 2199 paired with E2046 1/8 scale Yurisha Iscandar

Up until now I've always did projects in isolation. But as a change of pace I've decided to pair two different model kits under a common subject matter for my upcoming projects. Firstly there is the non-similar scale pairings. These will comprise kits relating to two classic anime in the 70's namely Mobile Suit Gundam (the RX-78-2 Gundam with Sayla Mass) and Space Battleship Yamato 2199 (Yamato Cosmo Reverse Version with Yurisha Iscandar). Then there are the similar 1/12 scale pairings for a special Star Wars project involving a Scout Trooper/Bike with a Race Queen and a Shoretrooper with Girl in Swimwear). Details to follow as each individual project gets underway.

Bandai Star Wars Scout Trooper plus bike paired with Atelier iT HQ12-02 Race Queen [both 1/12 scale]

Bandai Star Wars Shoretrooper paired with Atelier iT HQ12-04 Girl with Spear [both 1/12 scale]

Meanwhile, seeing that an unusually large proportion of my figurine collection consists of 1/12 scale figure model kits (both plastic and resin) as well as 1/12 scale figurine accessories, it stands to reason I should do something about this peculiarity. And where else better than to pair 1/12 scale musical instruments by F-Toys with the Bandai Star Wars figurine plastic kits. It should make for far more interesting poses for the eventual photography shoot of the completed projects. 

F-Toys Band Mono 1/12 scale musical instruments

Bandai Star Wars 1/12 Scale First Order Stormtrooper

Then there is the requisite 1/35 scale AFV scale model kit has already become a permanent part of  my project pipeline. Working on AFVs is a great way to learn weathering techniques and it's bonus that I've more than a passing interest in military vehicles either modern or historical. My next AFV will be the World War II German Heavy Tank Sd.Kfz.182 King Tiger (Henschel Turret) by MENG. Scale model kits by this China-based company are known for their complexity and high part counts. To dip my toes in the water I plan on starting with one of their easier kits i.e. the King Tiger.

Meng German Heavy Tank Sd.Kfz.182 King Tiger (Henschel Turret)

Of all the projects mothballed since 2015, currently only those fulfilling two conditions stand any chance of resuming in the near future. One, they should already be prepped and primed. And two, they should at least be 70 mm (or 1/28) in scale i.e. fairly large in size. That leaves only Knight Models Loki and Nocturna Models Battle Chick in contention. Regardless of whether either make it back to my work table, the next project will definitely come from the 2018 project list above. Until then I had best get back to Phase Two of the AT-ST weathering process. Cheers!

Star Wars AT-ST [WIP - Phase One of the Hull, Drive Engine & Gyro System; Basecoat, Wash & Panel Lining]

There was once a time I would've stopped here. Weathering with washes and panel lining over a basecoat was all it took to momentarily scratch that ceaseless itch to paint up a monotone grey hued vehicle of the Galactic Empire's Imperial Navy or Army. And in most cases it would've been enough seeing that such vehicles are almost always in good working condition hence require minimal weathering. Now though, this step is only Phase One of Five in the AT-ST's weathering process.   

Star Wars AT-ST upper hull armor plating work-in-progress: washes and panel lining

Even at this early stage, a lot of time has already been invested in the painting of the AT-ST. And the amount of work involved so far is perhaps best encapsulated in the picture below. To put it as briefly as possible, phase one starts with a light grey primer coat followed by a basecoat of Tamiya AS-16 (Light Gray USAF) which is then protected with a gloss clear coat. This is followed by enamel/oil-based panel lining and washes (Tamiya Panel Line Accent Colors, Mr Weathering Color and their corresponding solvents), which in turn is sealed with a semi-gloss clear coat in preparation for the oil dot filter weathering technique. Frustratingly though there is so much more to do ...    

Paint, protective clear coats and solvents used in Phase One of the weathering process

.. cue Phases Two through Four for the upper/mid section. Phase Two will see the use of oil dot filter technique to add a more varied chromatic sheen to the AT-ST's monotone color scheme. Meanwhile, Phase Three is expected to consist of the painting of micro paint chips which will then be tied-in with the rest of the color scheme with either a wash or a clear semi-gloss coat or both. And Phase Four should comprise the painting of metallic parts (e.g. flexible steel pipes) which will be given a black wash for depth and definition. All four phases will be repeated for the AT-ST's weapons and legs.

AT-ST top with the open hatch option after initial panel lining, washes and rust stains

Back view of the AT-ST top with its top hatch open

There is an additional fifth phase but this extra weathering process does not apply to the hull, drive engine and gyro system. Phase Five will be localized around the lower section of the AT-ST's legs. It will comprise either mud or snow depending on whether the Imperial walker is situated on the forest floor of Endor or the snowy plains of Hoth. I'm leaning towards Endor as that was when the AT-ST took center stage for the first time and, for me, became one of the cooler Star Wars vehicles. 

Angled view of the AT-ST's work-in-progress upper hull armor plating

Rust stains were applied onto the side armor platings as subtly as possible

AT-ST command view port hatches and side sensor pods

Any vehicle in the Imperial Army that is in working condition shouldn't be over-weathered hence rust stains were applied lightly and sparingly. To complement the stains I'll likely try to paint in micro paint-chips during the third phase. Even the mud (or snow as the case may be) on the 'chicken legs' of the AT-ST will be kept to a minimalistic level. Enough weathering to make the AT-ST look realistic but not overbearing to the extent that the weathering itself takes center stage.

Back of AT-ST upper hull comes to life only after panel lining, washes and yet more subtle rust stains

Flexible steel piping underneath the AT-ST's upper hull will likely be painted in metallic hues later

AT-ST gyro system which sits in between the upper hull and drive engine (aka mid-section)

But one thing is for sure. Panel lining is absolutely essential in the painting of the AT-ST. It's the bare minimum weathering that needs to be done. Even if you do nothing else, at least apply panel lining on the model kit. Without it, the AT-ST will lack depth and look extremely one dimensional.

AT-ST drive engine (mid-section) with initial panel lining, washes and rust stains

Back view of the AT-ST drive engine (aka mid-section)

Bottom view of the AT-ST drive engine (aka mid-section)

Having a five phase a weathering process means the road ahead for the AT-ST is going to be a long one. And knowing myself, that spells trouble as I'll tend to get bored when a project drags out thus affecting the paint job quality. The only solution I've for this problem is kind of a silly one. What I usually do is to flood myself with even more projects. It keeps things fresh and helps me retain a high level of enthusiasm about any given project at any given time. Sure it might result in the occasional abandoned project but the trade off is worth it. So get ready for garage kit resin figurines; mechas; an Empire Wants You 1/12 scale figure pairings (more on this later); cult classic anime figure/vehicle combos; iconic WW2 tanks; and much, much more. Isn't this just the best hobby ever?    

Note: Photos viewed on Samsung devices will have an unnatural greenish tint. 

Nendoroid Wonder Woman (Hero's Edition) - Unboxing and Review

A short break from hobby projects has always been a necessary evil for me to avoid creative burnouts. And I'm using this one to post a quick review of the second Good Smile Company Nendoroid figurine that my son and I got as a gift for the missus i.e. Wonder Woman. It's her second figurine after the highly impressive Belle. Thus far nearly all her collectible figurines have been of strong female characters e.g. Funk Pop Daenerys Targayen. Her collection started all those years ago with Ritsu Tainaka, a mutually beloved character from one of our favourite animes K-On! (see middle figurine in last picture, sandwiched between two non-heroine characters from Star Wars).

Good Smile Company's Nendoroid Series #818: Wonder Woman (Hero's Edition)

Front angled view of the still-in-the-box Nendoroid Wonder Woman

Back angled view of the still-in-the-box Nendoroid Wonder Woman

Pictures at the back of the box show off Wonder Woman's many possible poses

Belle is figure #755 in the series but as I write this the latest one is Nendoroid #910 ... I think

Box-art for Nendoroid Wonder Woman is simple yet nice

Similar to the Beauty and the Beast heroine, Wonder Woman comes with her own accessories which include the lasso of truth, a second face option with an angrier expression, a set of crossed arms, two different hands in which to grip weapons, a sword, a shield an importantly a display base. Because unlike Belle, this DC super heroine isn't as stable - a result stemming from her inability to literally stand on her own two feet. Poses of her seemingly standing on her own feet are actually camera trick shots of her lying on her back. Her legs are too fragile to support the weight of her oversized head.

Nendoroid Wonder Woman and her many accessories encased in sturdy plastic packaging

Instructions for changing Nendoroid Wonder Woman between her many poses

Paint-wise Nendoroid Wonder Woman looks great. Her costume is suitably shiny à la the metallic armor worn by Gal Gadot in the DC movie reboot of the iconic super heroine. Meanwhile her dark brunette hair has subtle shades which make it look voluminous. Sadly such subtle shades weren't properly captured on camera partly due the black background I was using. And while her skin is rather monotone, that's fairly common among figurines comprising this 'chibi' design.

Nendoroid Wonder Woman in her first pose straight out of the box

With the help of the display stand, Wonder Woman is able to strike much more dynamic poses

Posing options are many and varied with the accessories available. This being a quick review, I went ahead with just the more recognizable and movie inspired poses like Wonder Woman with her sword and shield, with her 'wakanda' pose and with her famous lasso of truth (see photos above and below).

Here she is in one of my favourite poses although in hindsight the angry face option might've been better

For some reason this pose evokes nostalgic recollections of Led Zeppelin's Immigrant Song

What matters most of all was that the missus loved it. And as much as I would love to get my hands on a pair of Nendoroids myself i.e. the Evangelion pair of Rei Ayanami and Asuka Langley, I would prefer to spend the limited budget on adding to the missus's meager collection (see last photo).

Nendoroid Wonder Woman comes with two face options i.e. angry and not

Wakanda Forever! Oops, sorry ... wrong universe

Lasso of truth in the deployed configuration vs  

For the moment though, none of the super-heroine figurines are on her desk. There's still the problem of finding suitable display cases for them. But more importantly, she's determining the pros and cons of displaying the Nendoroid figurines in an open office environment. 

Currently at the missus's work desk are Bee-bee-ate, Ritsu Tainaka and Darth Vader

Anyhoo, the next post should see a resumption in work-in-progress project updates. Even as I work on the All Terrain Scout Transport (AT-ST) there are so many other ideas running through my head. To give you a peek into my jumbled thoughts, I've plans to paint 1/8 scale anime resin garage kits to accompany topic-related scale model kits (e.g. Yurisha Iscandar with Space Battleship Yamato, Sayla Mass with RX-78-2, etc.); paint larger miniatures from 1/20 up to 1/6 scale; apply more advanced weathering techniques on AFV kits such as a King Tiger tank and other Star Wars vehicles; try using pastel and oil paints on projects ... the list goes on and on. I guess my short break is officially over.