Bumblebee, Autobot Transformer in vehicular form [WIP - Bodywork and Paint]

 In what seems to be a pseudo-Groundhog Day situation, first quarter (1Q) 2021 finds me seemingly entangled in either just color tests or plain base-coating. February is but a day away from its end, and here I am at the base-coat stage of the Volkswagen Beetle's bodywork. Pair this with my previous color test for the Speeder Bike black section and a near future color test for the Sturmgeschutz III Ausf.B armor, you can perhaps understand my feelings of déjà vu. In short no substantive progress is expected on any project before 2Q 2021. Yet it's still a start beyond inertia, so there's that.

Tamiya 1/24 Volkswagen 1300 Beetle work-in-progress: Bodywork and Paint

 More so than perhaps any other vehicular project I have undertaken thus far, the Beetle required more meticulous prep work to ensure a smooth as possible surface for the subsequent primer and base-coat layers. It helped tremendously that the Tamiya Beetle bodywork parts had minimal mold lines, especially the Bonnet and Boot covers. While the main bodywork itself had some mold line issues (see below) which required some prep work, it wasn't considered too major an issue. 

Main bodywork of the Volkswagen Beetle had some mold line issues ...

... particularly above the headlight cavities ...

... running all the way below the said cavities, and ...

... on the roof surface, located close to all four  side doors, as well as ...

... two lines running parallel to each other near the bottom third of the rear bodywork

 After carefully shaving off the mold lines using a hobby knife with a rounded blade tip, I applied my go-to primer product namely the light gray Tamiya Fine Surface Primer (see below).

Volkswagen Beetle after the priming stage and prior to receiving its base-coat layer

 Having an airbrush system is a prerequisite to achieving the smoothest base-coat paint layer possible. This is because an airbrush allows the consistent application of several thin layers of paint, which translates into a final coat of paint with a fairly uniform thickness. Painting via hand can still accomplish this but it will unrealistically lengthier amount of time. Meanwhile, using a spray paint injects a level of unpredictability due to lesser control over the amount of paint being dispensed. Regardless, an airbrush was used and first to be painted was the Beetle's roof interior.

Area surrounding the roof interior was first masked off before being painted

Roof interior with masks removed; note interior color is a variation of beige

 As for the outer surface area of the bodywork, a previously determined shade of Bumblebee Yellow was airbrushed onto it in several light, thin coats. In addition, a protective semi-gloss clear topcoat was sprayed on top of the paint base-coat. I used a spray can to apply this protective topcoat, which is hypocritical of me seeing I had already established that spray cans did not afford good dispensation control. But not really, for I had used Mr.Hobby Super Clear topcoat, which based on experience is well-formulated to be almost fool-proof. Specifically, if you didn't depress the nozzle all the way down for long periods and at a too-close-distance to the paint surface, the topcoat should even out nicely.  

Volkswagen Beetle with its base-coat and a protective semi-gloss top-coat applied

Closeup from the front; isometric view of the main bodywork

Closeup from the back; isometric view of the main bodywork

 Shown below are photos of yet more angles of the base-coated Volkswagen Beetle bodywork.

Front view of the Volkswagen Beetle main bodywork and bonnet

Back view of the Volkswagen Beetle main bodywork, and the boot cover

Volkswagen Beetle main bodywork, after base-coat as viewed from the left side

Volkswagen Beetle main bodywork, after base-coat as viewed from the right side

 Next on the Beetle's progress I'm faced with a figurative fork on the road. I could choose either to weather the painted bodywork first, or install the headlights, back-lights, door handles, side windows, windshield and such before attempting any weathering effects. The latter seems the likelier route but I'll have to put some thought into it first before I deciding. And if it seems impossible my projects can go any slower, I am afraid it can. For you see, I've rekindled my love of reading in a serious way with a backlog of hundreds of scifi/fantasy/horror titles to be consumed. On that note, I leave you with a Lemony Snicket quote ... “Never trust anyone who has not brought a book with them.” 

Happy Lunar New Year 2021

 Happy Year of the Ox everyone. It's that time of the year again when the Chinese diaspora all over the world celebrates the lunar new year. Here's wishing you, dear reader, a healthy new year.

 Since my family is still in the midst of a three-year mourning period for my late-father, we won't be celebrating the occasion this year. Also the family and I won't be doing much celebrations anyway with the pandemic and all. Anyway, have a great year, stay safe and be well!

Star Wars Speeder Bike [WIP - Assembly of, and Color Test for the Black Metal Parts]

 Calling the sub-assemblies on display as the "Black Metal Parts" is admittedly an oversimplification on my part. Technically speaking the said parts (generally from front-to-back) comprise the Speeder Bike's multi scanner array, outriggers, tracking sensor/comlink, steering linkages, guidance system electronics, power converter, structural bracing, repulsor block, power plant, and repulsor projection units. As you can see, that is a real mouthful of make-believe-techno-babble that is of no interest to anyone but the nerdiest fans (like myself). So I'm keeping it simple, hence "Black Metal Parts". 

1/12 scale Speeder Bike work-in-progress: Assembly of the Black Metal Parts

Assembled parts above form the black metal bits of the Speeder Bike's main structure

 Actually there are more black metal parts than the ones you see assembled above. Not shown here, the aforementioned parts extend outwards from the Speeder Bike's main structural block, and are slightly more complicated to put together. As such they will be dealt with at a later date. These yet-to-be-assembled outward extending black metal parts consist of handlebars and handgrips (that house the steering sensitivity adjuster as well as blaster cannon firing controls); rocker-pivoted footpads (that control speed and altitude); blaster cannon; and rear repulsor deflectors.

Plastic sprues containing the black metal parts of the Aratech 74-Z Speeder Bike

 Rather than painting all these parts with a pure metallic paint, I instead plan to mimic the Speeder Bike's futuristic metal alloy by painting as well as dry-brushing metallic paint (or maybe pastels) onto a black grey basecoat. This basecoat layer was created by airbrushing Gaia 075 Neutral Grey V onto a Mr.Finishing Surfacer 1500 Black primer coat and then sealing it with a protective Mr.Super Clear Semi-Gloss topcoat. While final results on the test spoons (see below) seem a tad too glossy, it might be just because of the spoon's curvature. If at the end the Black Metal Parts still look too glossy even after undergoing washes and metallic effects, then I could always apply a final flat clear coat.     

Color used to mimic black metal was the semi-gloss coated ...

... Gaia 075 Neutral Grey V lacquer paint on top of a black primer coat

Resulting color is darker than the molded plastic parts; perfect for my purposes

 To be clear, the painted black metal color was intentionally made to look darker than the original greys of the molded parts. Based on past experience, I believe the overall color scheme should lighten after application of the metallic/weathering effect. Time will tell for sure but for now my gut feeling is to go darker from the get-go. Meanwhile with the missus's birthday days away as I finish this post, I am going to leave you with this apt quote from what is fast becoming my new favorite show ....  “If soulmates do exist, they’re not found. They’re made.” – Michael, The Good Place.